Yes, we are open all year round. However, our business hours vary greatly from season to season. Please check our Facebook/Twitter postings or call for current hours.
We encourage you to stop by to see the poinsettia crop at its best between mid-November and early December.
Is there a guarantee on plants?
While there is no guarantee on our plants, we are always interested in helping you to discover the source of problems you may be having with your plants. Please contact us with any questions on plant product that you have purchased.
What is the return policy for hard goods?
The original sales receipt must accompany any non-plant returns. Sale merchandise is sold as is and is not returnable. Regular priced merchandise must be returned within 7 days in pristine condition. We endeavour to carry quality merchandise. However we cannot always protect against defective merchandise. In the event you find that a hard good product is defective, please return it with the original sales receipt, any time during the current season.
Do you provide discounts?
We recognize a variety of local plant interest groups, including the Edmonton Horticultural Society. Card carrying members receive 10% off all regularly priced plants. Plants on sale and hard goods are not included in the discount offer. Member cards must be presented to the cashier before purchases are rung into the till.
What does it mean to harden off my plants?
Hardening off means to gradually acclimatize your plants to the location they will be planted in. In the greenhouse, plants are in a more humid environment than outdoors in Alberta. Alberta sun is very intense and because humidity is low, relocating sun-loving plants, recently purchased from the greenhouse, directly to a sunny outdoor location can be very hard on them. Generally, it is recommended to put plants outside in the shade for 4 to 10 days before transplanting them. If weather conditions are hot and dry, plants will need longer to get used to the new environment. If conditions are overcast for an extended period or if plants are going into the shade, they could be planted in their final location immediately. Some plants like begonias, coleus and tomatoes are very temperature sensitive. Early in the season, these types of plants may need to be protected if night temperatures get low.
Arch Greenhouses 2011
Dehydration is the main reason why perennials do not survive our winters. Early spring thawing and freezing cycles are also hard on perennials. Adequate watering before freeze up helps prevent winter dehydration and damage from spring thaws. Therefore, ensure perennials are well watered before freeze up and, if possible, cover with lots of snow.
Should I cut the dead foliage and stalks from my perennials to get the garden beds ready for winter?
No. The dead stalks and dead leaves can act as insulation protecting the crown of the plant from the cold as well as helping to trap snow, which is the best insulating blanket a perennial can have. If you absolutely must have a tidy garden, then cut the stems to a uniform 12Ē height.
There is an added benefit to not cutting as well - perennials with their seed heads left on will provide winter food for birds.
Note: There is an exception (isnít there always!). Peony plants must have all the dead leaves cleared away and the stalks cut to about 2Ē above the ground. Do not compost this; bag it and put it out in the garbage. Peony debris can harbour botrytis, a grey mould, that can be very damaging to the plant.
A lot of my perennials didnít come back in the spring. How come? And how can I make sure theyíll survive this winter?
Hmm! Any number of reasons! Perhaps the most common one though is moisture. Perennial beds need to be moist going into winter - if the soil is dry it can be very hard on the plants (and trees and shrubs). Weíve had very dry late falls the last few years so itís important to keep an eye on the soil, and water if necessary - even in November if itís been mild with no rain or snow!
Also, in areas where the snow is quick to leave in the spring, the plants can be covered with a 4-6Ē layer of mulch (leaves or peat moss) once the ground is going to stay frozen solid and left until it is certain the warmer weather is here to stay. Quite often there is a week or two in February or March when the weather gets unseasonably warm, the snow melts, the soil warms up, and the little plants wake up and start to grow - only to be blasted with -30 for the next 2 months! Tender new growth canít survive that.
Why didnít some of my new perennials seem to do much this year?
Some perennials will put on a good show the first summer they are planted; others need to get accustomed to their new home. A good rule of thumb is that perennials are planted for next year not this! A perennial gardener is, of necessity, a patient gardener!
How late can I plant perennials?
Perennials can be planted right through to fall, usually until at least the end of September. As long as they have a couple of weeks of warm weather to settle in, theyíll be fine.
If you donít think there is enough time for your perennial to adjust, just plant it in its pot! It will survive quite nicely and you can dig it up in the spring and then plant it properly.
Poinsettias are very temperature sensitive; they neither like to be too warm nor too cold; something in the range of 60 - 70 F/ 16-21 C is ideal. Take your poinsettia home in a well warmed vehicle. Once home, place your poinsettia away from any drafts (near windows, doors, or heat vents) in a spot where it will receive at least six hours of bright, but not direct, sunlight.
As poinsettia stems and branches are easily broken from pressure put on them, when taking your poinsettia home, support your well wrapped poinsettia from the base, taking care not to crush the sides of the sleeve in any way. Take your poinsettia out of the sleeve as soon as possible by carefully ripping or cutting the sleeve from the bottom up. Do not try to save the sleeve. To help prevent stem breakage, put your poinsettia in a place where it will not be touched or brushed against.
Poinsettias do not like to be too wet nor too dry. Water to the point of water running out of the drainage holes whenever the soil is dry to the touch or when picked up, the plant feels lighter than you would think it would be. To avoid drowning the plant, do not allow the poinsettia to sit in water. If you leave the poinsettia in the speed hat we supplied at the time of sale, we recommend removing the speed hat before watering and watering the plant over a sink, replacing the speed hat after dripping ceases.